Ceramides 101: A Detailed Guide

When you pick up a moisturizer at the store, you may think that as long as it says “moisturizer” on the bottle, you’re good to go. But you may want to take a closer look, specifically to ensure that “ceramides” are listed as an ingredient.

“Ceramides are lipids (fatty molecules) that serve an important function in helping to create and support the skin’s barrier,” says Courtney Rubin,?MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of Fig.1, based in Los Angeles.

Ceramides occur naturally in the skin and help it stay hydrated, but they can also be applied topically to boost your moisture levels and repair dry, cracked skin. You’ll usually see them in moisturizers, but you also can find ceramides as a key ingredient in cleansers, serums, and other skin-care products.

Dr. Rubin says to think of skin cells as bricks that fit together to build the skin barrier. “Ceramides function as the mortar between the bricks that seals the wall together so it forms a working barrier,” she says. That barrier keeps the moisture in and bad things, such as germs and irritants, out, according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association.

You may be asking yourself why you should care about your skin barrier at all. “It’s important because breakdown or dysfunction in skin barrier function can lead to skin dryness, itching, and inflammatory skin disorders such as eczema,” Rubin says. In other words, a compromised skin barrier negatively impacts the skin and oftentimes dryness is the result.

Ceramides help keep the skin hydrated, but levels naturally decrease as time passes, according to a review published 2019 in OCL. That’s not all, though — many external factors can also break down the skin barrier, including abrasive scrubbing, exfoliating, hot showers, and cold, dry winters, Rubin says.

For these reasons, it’s a good idea to re-up your ceramide levels and reinforce the skin barrier with products containing the molecules. “Supplementing with additional skin barrier support can help prevent dry, cracked, flaky, and itchy skin,” Rubin says.

Simply put, ceramides are all-star moisturizers. “These lipid-like molecules add moisture and restore the skin’s barrier function,” says Kenneth Mark, MD, a cosmetic dermatologist based in New York and Colorado. They’re also great for anyone interested in keeping their skin looking as young as possible.

Research suggests that ceramides can help with:

Increasing Hydration

According to a?review published in 2018 in Dove Medical Press Limited, cream containing ceramides increases skin hydration and improves skin barrier function, making it a good option for battling dry skin.

Reducing Wrinkles

Moisture affects the aging of skin in a big way. In a?study published in 2019 in Dermatologic Therapy, study participants with dry skin applied a ceramide-containing moisturizer twice a day for 28 days and reported seeing significant improvements in hydration, barrier function, and skin pH.

Preventing Breakouts

Previous research found that moisturizers containing ceramides complement acne treatment, and the authors recommended considering ceramides when seeking treatment for acne.

Ceramides may also help counter the drying that often happens with acne products. “Since someone with acne-prone skin is usually producing a lot of oil, they may use products that cause dryness, and the ceramides will help counteract the irritation of the drying products,” Dr. Mark says.

There are more than a dozen types of ceramides, according to a?study published in 2020 in the International Journal of Toxicology. But don’t let that confuse you. “In skin care, they all function similarly to support the skin’s barrier function,” Rubin says.

You might find ceramides listed as an ingredient in skin-care products such as cleansers or serums, but Rubin says moisturizers are the most important skin-care product to look for when it comes to reaping the benefits of ceramides. That’s because the main benefit of ceramides is skin barrier support, just like that of moisturizers.

And ceramides aren’t some obscure skin-care ingredient that you’ll have to go hunting for. They’re common, but check the bottle to be sure. “Simply look at the ingredient list and check for the word ‘ceramide,’” Rubin says.

There are no known side effects of using products with ceramides. “They’re safe and easily tolerable for those of all ages and skin types, including those with eczema and psoriasis,” Rubin says.

You know that one friend you can include in any group and know they’ll mesh well? That’s how ceramides are in the skin-care world. “Ceramides play well with numerous ingredients,” says Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. “I don’t think there’s any ingredients that ceramides negatively interact with.”

Ceramides aren’t the only hydrating ingredients, of course. Rubin notes that glycerin, squalane, and hyaluronic acid are similarly good at moisturizing the skin. “They all work well together to support the skin’s moisture barrier and adequate hydration,” she says. That’s why you’ll often find them combined in the same products.

Dr. King notes that ceramides are emollients, which are hydrocarbons that help support the skin barrier and improve texture. She says that other emollients, such as squalene, fatty acids, and fatty alcohols, act in a similar way.

Ready to add ceramides to your skin-care routine? Keep the following in mind when choosing your product:

Certain Scientific Names

You may see ceramides on the product label as “ceramide EOP,” “ceramide NP,” or “ceramide AP,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York City and Clifton, New Jersey.

Cholesterol and Fatty Acids

This combo most closely mimics the natural composition of skin, and “including all three in a skin-care product may help to maximize restoration of the skin barrier and moisture retention,” says Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York City.

Dr. Garshick says to look for a 1:2:1 ratio of cholesterol to ceramides to fatty acids, as that’s known to most closely match the makeup of your natural skin barrier.

Alcohol-Free

While not every product will be labeled this way, be sure to check the ingredient list, and avoid drying alcohols, such as ethanol, denatured alcohol, methanol, or isopropyl alcohol, Garshick says.

Because ceramides are safe to use, there’s no limit to how often you should or shouldn’t use them.

Rubin suggests applying a body moisturizer containing ceramides after you shower, regardless of whether it’s in the morning or at night — “ideally when the skin is still damp for maximum moisturizing benefits,” she says. That way, the ceramides in the moisturizer will lock in the hydration.

Add ceramides to your skin-care routine by investing in one of the following products, each of which come recommended by a dermatologist:

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

Garshick recommends this moisturizing cream, found at most drugstores, which contains three types of ceramides, as well as hyaluronic acid, to help keep the skin smooth all day. “It’s also fragrance free, making it an especially good option for those with sensitive skin,” she says.

Buy it at?Target.com.

SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore: 2:4:2

Both Camp and Garshick recommend this ceramide cream. “This moisturizer contains a patented ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, which are well-known components of the skin barrier,” Garshick says. “It is a great moisturizer for those also using a retinoid, as it does a great job keeping the skin moisturized, enabling people to better tolerate their retinoid.”

Buy it at?Skinceuticals.com.

Dove Body Love Sensitive Care Body Lotion

To extend the benefits of ceramides to your whole body, choose this body lotion from Dove. “It’s a great choice for sensitive skin because it hydrates but doesn’t contain irritating or drying ingredients,” King says.

Buy it at?Walmart.com.

EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex

Camp recommends this skin-strengthening moisturizer. “Ceramides are included in this barrier cream along with other essential lipids to fortify the skin barrier, restore its natural hydration system, reduce the appearance of redness, and promote skin cell turnover,” he says.

Buy it at?EltaMD.com.

Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream-Infused Mask

This ceramide-containing face mask is said to strengthen the skin barrier by 31 percent. Garshick says that it leaves the skin feeling moisturized for 24 hours after taking it off.

Buy it at?Sephora.com.